From Loreto: - No Luck with posting the pictures

That is how it goes when you are cruising, the best plans and intentions don't buy you much. We arrived here on a Sunday. The good Internet store was closed. Plan "B" had a very slow connection and I had to run the laptop on batteries only. On the other hand we had two very good meals and got some much needed groceries. We looked at some artwork and clothing but since the cruise ships come here the prices have at least doubled.

Lots of prospering locals but it has its bad side also. We ran into a really uncouth shopkeeper. That is the first time for us in Mexico.

A quick item for Dean Wilson: contrary to my email of a few hours ago if it's not too late kindly get those tickets (2). Rhea said we will be in town.

We are off at dawn to explore several new to us anchorages on Isla Carman. Then we will continue north.

We had a long talk on the phone today with our kids and their spouses so we are a very content boat tonight. The new arrival is eating well and may go home today or tomorrow.

Fifth Grandchild arrives

Friday afternoon we received emails telling us that our daughters' baby was on the way. She wasn't due until May 14th. Abby arrived just after midnight our time. Our son Joe kept us updated and just before noon while fueling we got the email (5 lbs. 1 oz. 17 ½ ") both doing well).

We eliminated a stop at Cendeleros Bay to get to the new expensive government marina south of Loreto so we could call Kim. The marina has four new, sharp, modern looking phone booths. The booths look good even without telephones.

After a little fuel and lots of water Vagari, with a very happy crew, anchored six kt. mi. north east of the marina in a cove off Isla Carman. Last year we took lots of clams out of this cove. This year the water was a little cool and we are anxious to get into town after two week "on the hook".

With a little luck I will post lots of pictures from Loreto tomorrow.

Posted via radio Saturday evening I hope.

Friday April 27: From Yellow Stone Beach Anchorage, Isla Monserrat

We are 49 miles north of were I last sent a post. Vagari is tucked behind the north side of Isla Monserrat, which is about 10 miles east of the Baja. After a 49 kt mile uneventful but beautiful passage. Sailed a little but mostly motored. Our last two anchorages and this one are beautiful isolated places. This one has a sailboat other than s/v Linda but the others were empty. They are all new to Vagari.

After two weeks away from a store we are almost out of fresh items so Monday we hope to anchor off Loreto to shop and I hope to post some photo to the blog.

Vagari could be a little tight on water before we get to a marina (mid May) so Sunday we plan to stop at Puerto Escondido for 85 gallons of water and 10 gallons of diesel fuel.

Saturday we will be at anther new anchorage (Candelro) this time on the Baja mainland.

Posted via radio Friday I hope.

Cruising Tuesday (4/24)

We planned to travel a short distance, 14 miles, up the San Jose Channel today as soon as the tide was favorable (10:45 AM). The contrary winds were supposed to completely die by the afternoon. The tide turned as scheduled but the contrary winds, "blew the skin off the rice pudding" until 4 PM.

So Wednesday after the tide turns favorable . . .

Monday after lunch we tried to explore the mangrove swamp in our dinghy. We couldn't cross the sand and rock bar that encloses the swamp because the water was too shallow due to a low tide and strong out flowing current.

About 5 PM our friends on s/v Linda said they were going to try again. They radioed from inside the bar "we raised the outboard and the current swept us in".

Away we went, no problem getting over the bar. We explored the swap, going all the way to the opposite (north) entrance. We motored out of that entrance, did some shelling on the point north of the swamp and then re entered and headed toward the south entrance. In these mangrove swamps you see lots of different birds and fish. Just before the south entrance we passed a well-armed good size Mexican Army boat. They returned our waves and smiles. Smiles work here also.

Then the adventure began. Steve and Linda powered against the current right thru the opening in the south bar. I followed with our much smaller (3 ½ HP. Vs 6 HP.). I was 2/3 of the way out and moving slowly when I ran out of gas. Our outboard was just scraping some of the larger rock so I decided to walk the boat out after filling our gas tank.

So I filled the tank and then drove into the rocks near the entrance. Rhea was in the front of the boat as she stepped to the shore. One foot was on the rocks and her other foot was in deep water. I jumped from the back of the boat to help. I ended up with one foot in deep water and one foot still in the boat. We both had a good laugh.

We gained control of the boat and walked out of the entrance and powered back to Vagari.

Wednesday we had a nice trip to a new very calm anchorage.

Thursday we plan to go about 49 miles north to a small island we have never been near.

Via radio, Wednesday evening I hope.

Sunday April 22, 2007 - Isla San Francisco & Isla San Jose

Steve (from s/v Linda) and I climbed the highest peak on this island. We went up a very steep section because we could not find any kind of a path or a better way up. It was a difficult climb. The large rocks on these islands are often floating on lose gravel. Your footing is never secure.

At the top we found a more or less level plateau. The view from the highest peak (689') was stunning. We could see our next anchorage on the south end of Isla San Jose, with a large mangrove swamp behind a sand bar and the break in the bar caused by the water run off from the tall hills (2089') that run down the center of the island. Also clearly visible was a small island that has been continuously occupied by fisherman for well over 70 years. They have built blockhouses, some two stories, and
a church. Some other islands and the San Jose Channel were also visible. And this was only looking north!

The photos, which will be posted as soon as we reach a town, are much better than my description.

The most interesting part of the hike was that on the plateau near the top we found three areas that had lots of large seashells, much larger than a bird could carry. At each site we also found a hard flat rock with a smooth egg shaped piece of granite on it or nearby. Looking at the site it was obvious to us that native peoples used these to pound shellfish to make them palatable. The high position would allow them to spot enemies coming from any direction.

The early Spaniards described the Baja shoreline as being full of shellfish. These explorers also said shellfish was the staple for the "Indians". The Spaniards destroyed the shellfish over many decades looking for pearls. The granite rock did not come Isla San Francisco or the nearby islands to the south.

Realizing what we were looking at both Steve and I felt very fortunate to be able to see this in its natural state.

Sunday evening was a potluck dinner with about a dozen boats on the beach.

Monday we moved north about 5 miles to the south end of Isla San Jose. While beachcombing we found granite stones like we found on the top of Isla San Francisco.

Posted I hope Monday afternoon via ham radio.

MORE FROM ISLA SAN FRANCISCO

Friday evening we went to a potluck dinner on the beach. Sunday evening we are doing it again.

Saturday six boats assembled on the beach at 9:30 AM for a hike. After the first steep uphill only two boats kept going to the top of the "hook" hill. The rest went along a ridge to a beach on the other side of the island. We met at a natural salt pond in the middle. The local fishermen use this salt for personal use and to salt their catch. I took a small hunk "for the grandkids".

We spent the evening on s/v Liberty Call II with the crew from s/v Linda for drinks and Mexican Train. We had an interesting discussion on the differences between US and MX history and the effects on the countries today.

A big-crewed powerboat was anchored next to Liberty Call II. A young American couple from the Denver area owns this vessel. One guest, a young lady, would yell and then jump into the water from the top deck. She didn't use a swimsuit perhaps because it was almost sunset. Finally, after the 6th jump and after a very careful examination of the circumstances the guys on Liberty Call II agreed with her judgment.

We are staying another day because Steve and I want to climb the tallest peak on this island.

Via radio more later 4/21/07 6 PM

VAGARI'S CRUISING LOG

Tuesday 4/17/07 Stayed on the boat all day. S/v Linda came over for dinner and Mexican Train. A very relaxing day.

Wednesday Hiked to the top of the volcanic rim. Scrapped my left wrist and bruised my backside on the way down. Fell several times and broke my hiking stick twice. A really great hike, lots of fun but we came down a rugged route. Wouldn't come down that way again. One highlight was that we saw three large black rabbits. Very large ears and just under 2 feet long I guess.

The second highlight was the view from the top. You will really like the photos. I will post them ASAP but that may be a couple of weeks.

The s/v's Sea Bourn, Liberty Call II and Linda came over for dinner and the usual exchange of cruising "stories". Great fun. Cloudy and cool all day.

Thursday Walk on the beach, boat projects and reading. Relaxing day. Cloudy and cool.

Friday Anchor on deck at 8:30; anchor down at 2:30 for 22 miles. We sailed all the way. Well less than 3 kts/hr at times but Vagari really moved for the light wind we had - some from the side but mostly behind us.

Arrived at Isla San Francisco to see a jet ski from a big La Paz powerboat zooming around this beautiful isolated anchorage. Prosperity is a two-sided coin.

High temp in the 80's clear sky. The forecast is for NW winds at 20 kts or better tomorrow then light and variable winds Sunday. If that holds, we will move north Sunday.

From Partida Cove Twenty One Miles North Of La Paz

Tuesday, April 17, 2007

We are anchored in the sunken center of a breached volcano. I hope to hike up to the top of the rim for some photos, but not today. The wind is really blowing and will continue thru Wednesday. Leaving the boat in strong winds is not wise, lot of things can happen so its best to stay on board or very lose. This anchorage is well protected from all seas but from the west. The wind and therefore the waves are from the north.

I think this is the same weather system that caused high winds in SaddleBrook over the weekend.

After a week in a marina we are ready for a day or two to kick back, relax, read, write, and listen to music or perhaps a baseball game on the satellite radio.

Our plans are to spend the next four weeks heading up the sea, stopping at anchorages we have not previously used we are with our fiends on the s/v Linda.

This was posted via radio.

We Leave Monday Morning

I had some time to post some more pictures and a post today, Sunday. We are off in the morning with the outgoing tide.

Cruising [krooz ing] verb- present participle (1) Repairing your boat in exotic anchorages

Being vigilant is a necessary part of cruising. Not only keeping a sharp lookout but also checking the boat systems for any early signs of problems. So a couple of days before we were going to depart La Paz while checking over the engine I checked the level of the transmission fluid. It was tad high just as it has been since the fluid was replaced last fall.

As I screwed the dipstick into the transmission case it didn’t tighten up, it just keep turning. The threaded part of the cap had separated from the top. Worse the threads were stuck in the transmission case. It was difficult to remove the top part and the dipstick itself because an exhaust hose runs just above the transmission. I did get the top and the dipstick out but was left with the threaded part in the case.

I ran the engine to see if the fluid would come out of the small dipstick hole in the threaded part. It sure did so I had to get the threaded portion out and make a plug that could stand the vibration of the engine.

Rhea had the winning idea to get the threaded part out. I used a serrated blade from my Leatherman tool. I jammed it in the center opening and rotated. Out it came. Yea for Rhea.

I put out a call on my short-range radio on the “hailing” channel. Most cruisers keep this channel on all day. I described the part I needed and asked who the local dealer was for my engine.

There is a dealer in town and a mechanic who works at another marina who is a certified Yanmar Diesel mechanic. I had used him once for some radio cabling work. I called the other marina and asked if they thought the mechanic would have the part. No, he doesn’t have any parts “especially not an esoteric part” like that but she said the Yanmar dealer is right across the street -- I will call and ask. The line was busy but she gave me the phone number.

The dealer didn’t have one but a cruiser friend called on the radio with two suggestions. I had started to take a balsa wood conical plug and cut it down to size. Cruisers carry these plugs in case one of our fittings that go thru the hull to let seawater in or out breaks. We can jam the plug in the opening; the balsa wood expands and makes a temporary seal. I tested my wood plug and it worked.

However my friend’s suggestion sounded like a better idea but I needed a part from a marine store. I hailed a marine store they -- had just what I wanted.

So three and a half hours after I checked the transmission; fifteen dollars in cab fares, twelve dollars in parts and just a couple of words I wouldn’t say in front of my Mother we are ready for sea.

Another morning in an exotic place.

We Were Told To Dock In Front of This Boat. Once They Looked At Vagari They Put Us As Far Away As Possible

The Inner Harbor. We Are All The Way In The Back

The Lap Pool

The Pool

The Beach At Our Marina

You Won’t Get Mexican Dinners Like These In the States

She Had A Good Time

Birthday Lady And Hubby

Birthday Party For Anita of Liberty Call II

From La Paz Friday the 13th

We plan to leave La Paz Monday and spend a month returning to San Carlos. We will start with three other sailboats. The weather looks good for next week but long-range forecasts have not been very reliable in Mexico.

The the picture posted today will be the last for a while but I will do updates via email.

Lunch Underway Rhea is a very good cook even when we are sailing.

Note The Date Of The Survey On The Current Charts

We Had Easter Dinner on Saturday Night

Hola From La Paz - The Capital of the Mexican State of Baja California (South)

We have been moving every day since Loreto so not much time to post to the blog. No problems but Easter Sunday was a very long day with the wind, waves and current all against us. Another long day today (Monday) but the weather was beautiful however the wind was on the nose (meaning coming from right in front of us) but light so we couldn’t sail today either.

We are in a new marina well out of town but it was the only slip available. They told us to tie up in front of a really nice boat. But once they found out that we didn’t have a helicopter and an auto on board and our boat was 41’ long not our tender they assigned us another slip. To bad, because I bet our neighbors would have been really interesting people.

I will try and post the balance of the first set of pictures and a few more from the last few days soon.

Monrise At Sunset The Night Before We Crossed To The Baja

Sunrise On The Crossing Before The Fog Hit

Underway On The Crossing Before The Fog Hit

Looks Like a Shrine - This Was About 15 Feet In Front Of The Cross That Looked Like A Grave Marker

A Grave We Found On A Hike

Hello From Gato & Toro Cove (Cat & Bull)

We are about 50 mils SE of Loreto where I posted some photos. Sorry about all the sunrises and sunsets.

Winds up to 25 KTS on the nose were forecast today s we made a short run early and were anchored before noon. In the afternoon the land heats up and increases the wind speed. We sailed a good part of today and yesterday.

It looks like we will do the same tomorrow. That should put us one long day from La Paz and our fiends on the s/v Linda

More from La Paz

From Loreto

I’m going to try and post a few photos today. We ha a great time in San Juanico Cove. Went on two hikes with a cruiser friend. Had dinner on each other’s boat. Went to a bonfire on beach the second night. The Saddlebrooke Hiking Club would love that cove. Lots of hiking trails all with spectacular views. And none of the trails are really difficult.

Motored 25 miles down the Baja to Loreto today. Flat calm seas no wind over 5 kts. Purchased a few vegetables in Loreto and had a nice lunch.

The rest of the photos later.

The Name On The Grave

Rock At South Entrance

Rock Off The South Side Of The Entrance

Moon Scape

South Side of The Cove

Cruisers Shrine

Vagari Was Here

Cruisers Momentos

Vagari Anchored

Cruisers Anchored Vagari In The Back

Entrance To San Juanico Cove

Bonfire on the Beach At San Juanico Cove

Sunrise Over Our Friends Boat Kokomo

Update From San Juanico Cove

A little more on the crossing to the Baja. The wind was forecast to be light from the SE. We actually had moderate to fresh winds all day from the SE. The fog made it almost cold. We wore two sweatshirts and a windbreaker jacket and blue jeans. It was so damp that everything collected drops of water. Including the steering wheel. The autopilot worked the entire crossing. We deal with the "won't disengage" problem by shutting the power off.

Vagari went very fast in those conditions. For short periods we would exceed 8 knots. She was also stable, seldom heeled over 10 degrees. We had the radar on so we could "see" ahead but still were not comfortable not "really" seeing.

The next day we enter San Juanico cove by 2:30 PM after a quick motor sail with clear skies and warm winds. Friends from the s/v KOKOMO from previous cruises come over after we anchored. We ended up having dinner on Vagari and a walk on the beach.

We have enjoyed the first two days cruising again.

From The Baja Side

Vagari crossed to the Baja Monday as planned. Different crossing than we expected. Fog and enough wind to sail all the way. The fog cleared for the last hour so we could see where to drop the hook. The waves were moderate. We went down to Conception Bay to anchor due to more favorable protection from the wind and seas. Flat calm evening.

Tuesday we have an 8 hour trip south to San Juanico Cove.

Poor propagation Monday night and very early Tuesday morning. Couldn't send.

Tuesday 9:55 AM trying again we are 32 miles from San Juanic Cove. No wind warm and clear.

More later.