6th letter to the kids. Spring of 04 shakedown cruise

What Do We Do All Day?

27˚ 56.788’ North

111˚ 05.521’ West

Hola,

We are back in our San Carlos slip. The trip to Isla San Marcos was notable because we saw three Sperm whales. They have a very distinctive head shape and they are the only whales that blow forward at about a forty-five degree angle. They feed almost exclusively on squid and octopuses. Santa Rosalia has a fleet of about 100 pangas that go out 6 nights a week to fish for giant squid. The really big squid run about 45 kilos (100 pounds) we were told. There are two squid packing plants just North of the harbor. The stench can be really bad if the wind is from the North.

We overtook the whales and as we passed the closest one lifted his huge head out of the water and looked at us. I would guess that we were well under 100 yards away.

We also saw bat rays doing flips from time to time. Common in warm seas we are told but the first time we have seen them.

The anchorage at Isla San Marcos was another neat spot. We were alone the first day and night. Just before sunset the second day an American sport fishing boat from San Diego anchored near us. We spent the days swimming, snorkeling, climbing around the near shore hills and taking dinghy rides to explore sea caves.

We found a cave that had a very low front door that you had to swim through, but once inside, the back opens onto a small beach accessible by dinghy if you go around a cliff. It also had a natural skylight in the ceiling. Really cool.

During the trip back to the mainland the engine died. We were about an hour into a 12-hour trip in very confused seas. We were bouncing around. I was up front cleaning up the mess made by raising the anchor. Rhea was at the helm.

The 1^st of two fuel filters was blocked because sediment from the fuel tank had been stirred up by the bouncing action of the boat. Vagari had spares on board so the only problem was figuring how to purge the fuel system of air after I had changed the filter. We also had the necessary manuals on board so I learned a new skill.

I had my lucky cedar plug out all the way back but no luck again. I am now thinking that only the Pacific Ocean Dorado like cedar plugs. One really smart bird dove on it four times. He was lucky not to get hooked.

We think we have two more days of “putting the boat away” before we head home.

Stan & Rhea

Thursday July 1, 2004